Hong Kong

 I've actually just arrived in Auckland today, having left Hong Kong yesterday.  I had an evening, two full days, and 2/3rds of the final day in Hong Kong, so could only get a brief taste of what the city has to offer. I wasn't sure what to expect, between the vloggers rhapsodizing about HK on Youtube, to a couple of acquaintances who hadn't cared for HK at all.  It is certainly a hugely urban, hugely crowded city that goes 24/7 - so if you don't like crowds, constant road noise, and having to continually take evasive action for roadworks, scaffolding, shop goods spilling out on the pavement, trucks parked on the pavement, unsavoury messes etc. then you aren't going to like it. 

Having said that, everybody was very quiet and polite, no shoving or shouting, the underground stations were busy but quite quiet, and most people I interacted with were friendly and spoke at least some English if not fluent English.  Rundown dirty old buildings are right next to stark modern architecture, luxury good stores just around the corner from ragged street markets under tarpaulins stretched across the alley for shade, gorgeous tropical parks are an oasis amongst the relentless urban sprawl. A city of contradictions I guess. I got on fine and enjoyed looking around.

I did do a bit of crafty exploration, although I don't dare buy much because I'm only allowed one suitcase on my NZ tour.  In the Sham Shui Po area on the Kowloon side, there are a cluster of streets known for their gathering of related shops.  On Bead Street, there were several small shops just crammed with beads, jewellery findings, trims, ribbons, embroidered appliques, tassels - like little Aladdins Caves.  I picked up a couple of pieces of Hong Kong related fabric for .80p each.  

Button Street was more of a general street market but I did see one cavernous button emporium with floor to ceiling little drawers lining the walls.  Nearby streets are meant to be Ribbon Street and Leather Street but again mostly filled with general street market stalls but admittedly I wasn't looking too hard, I was just enjoying the atmosphere.

There's also an enormous flower and plant market. One shop had crocheted flower bouquets, very cute.

The next day I was over across the harbour in the Hong Kong central business district, full of modern skyscrapers like Canary Wharf in London, only going up steep hills.  After riding the historic tram up Victoria Peak and hiking down, I did a self guided walk through  the traditional Sheung Wan neighbouhood which finished at the renovated 1906 Western Market.  Here I was delighted to find the first floor full of fabric traders selling all kinds of fabric on the roll.  One of the women assistants said they get a lot of tourists shopping for quilting fabric (which was cheap but they didn't have a lot of selection) and also women buying up fabric to have their tailors back home sew their seasonal wardrobes for them.  I bought a bit of dragon fabric from her, I think it's polycotton but will do for lining, and from an old gentleman across the way, two half metres of rayon brocade that he said is bought for making Chinese dresses and the traditional top and trouser suits .  Gorgeous stuff and only GBP9.50 a metre.