It's been radio silence for three weeks because I've just found by the time I get back to the hotel in the evenings, and prepare for the next day, and catch up my journal, record my expenses, maybe do some laundry etc., there hasn't been the time or energy for blogging. But I'm at the airport now waiting for my flight to Seoul, Korea, so I thought I could make a post to catch up.
I was in time to see the cherry blossom which was thrilling, even though the first three days it poured rain steadily. In a way it was good, I was able to go to some of the top blossom sights like Nakameguro which would normally be mob scenes, but due to the weather they weren't that crowded. I even got into the famous Starbucks Roastery building there, which is normally a timed ticket, and enjoyed a Sakura themed iced tea. I viewed blossom at several spots such as the Imperial Palace moat, the East Palace gardens, the nearby temple, Yoyogi Park, Shinjuku Gyoen Park, Yanaka cemetary and other locations. It was always beautiful, whether rain or shine, the graceful blossom laden branches waving in the wind. The main blossom is almost white in colour but there are other rarer varieties that are shades of pink. On nicer days, it was wonderful to see the Japanese out in droves celebrating 'hanami' or flower viewing, having outdoor picnics on blue tarps with friends and families under the blossoming trees.
Some other things I did that first week or so were to attend a full kabuki performance at the famous Kabukiza theatre in Ginza - I was afraid that the almost four hour performance would be too much but there were two long breaks so it was actually fine and quite interesting as well to see the Japanese ladies dressed up in their kimono for the theatres. I went to the Edo Tokyo Open Air Museum where they have collected a number of old buildings, many of them from the 20thC, that you can view and go inside such as an old Sake shop, a couple of upper class mansions, some folk buildings and farm houses - and set in a park full of beautiful blossoming cherry trees. I've hit up several craft and stationery shops including Odakaya, Yuzawaya, Craft Heart Taito, Loft, Hands, Otoya - and visited a new to me traditional Japanese artisanal craft shop called Bingoya. The latter was full of high quality examples of traditional Japanese crafts such as lacquerware, ceramics, textiles etc and is set up as a traditional Japanese store inside so quite interesting to look around.
I took a Japanese mochi making experience in the teacher's home (booked on Viator) which was quite fun and we got to eat our results which were delicious - two with fresh strawberries, one dango in a savoury (GF) soy sauce and one coloured for sakura season. Hopefully I can recreate these when I get home. I had a pleasant day at DisneySea, which I didn't like as much as Tokyo Disney when I went with DH a few years ago, but still fun.
Then I spent five days on a course to handsew a Japanese summer kimono or yukata. This was really a marathon of handsewing and only a few of us reached a sufficient point of being finished to wear it on the sixth day to a tea ceremony experience, luckily I was one of them. The teacher is European but has studied remotely with a Japanese kimono sewing instructor. She was very nice but her teaching occasionally got a bit muddled as she was teaching from memory rather than a written course plan, we were given no notes so everything was passed on verbally and piecemeal, and English is not her first language so there were several instances of minor miscommunication. It was still fun to learn one method to assemble a traditional kimono fitted to our personal measurements, but it was a whole lot of 'hand sew this really long seam and then blind stitch the raw edges down into a felled seam', rinse and repeat. We joked that all the blind stitch was making us go blind. It was also fun to go to Nippori fabric town as a group to choose our fabric, Ive been a few times before but on my own or with DH, it was different going with a pack of enthusiastic sewers all discovering different treasures. I played it safe and chose a quilt-weight cotton on the theory that I could always use it as quilt backing if it was a disaster. I had a few hiccups and my collar came out a bit too wide (my fault) but I got it finished and hemmed apart from some interior seam allowances not finished. Three of us got to that point, and on the final day we went to a kimono and tea ceremony experience where the professional kimono dressers dressed us in the kimono we had sewn (they were very impressed that we had done it because they don't know how) or in a rented kimono if you hadn't finished. I was so glad that I got to that point, DH would say its because I am a completionist. I can't really imagine wearing it in the UK as it requires a whole lot of cords and pleating, not to mention tying an obi, but at least I've had the experience of handsewing a real kimono and wearing it in Japan.
After the tour finished I had a couple more days: I went on an organised food tour in Shibuya and also travelled out to Yamato (south west of Tokyo) to visit a huge antique fair held there every month. There is a glut of secondhand kimono and obi on the market, Japanese women rarely wear them except on special occasions and my Japanese friend told me that most women are not able to dress themselves in a kimono. Coupled with COVID and the very small apartments, people don't want to store their family kimono any more. So at the antiques fair, there must have been at least 20 stalls selling secondhand kimono and obis, many of them for as cheap as £2.50 or £5 each. I had already bought a secondhand obi in Nippori, and they are surprisingly stiff and heavy, so I didn't buy anymore. I did bring an empty suitcase but it was already mostly full by the end of week 3 even though I have already discarded a few items of clothing.
This past weekend, I took the bus up the Kawaguchiko to visit the Kubota Isuchiku museum of art kimono, a museum purpose-built by the artist himself to exhibit some of his amazing output of stunning dyed silk kimono. This is also ground zero for view Mount Fuji, which looms over everything. I was surprised to find the cherry blossom (already over in Tokyo) was still going here so the prime spots were pretty busy as everyone jostled to get photos of Fuji-san floating above the beautiful blossom. I spent two nights and went to some of the prime spots around the lake and also out to the famous Chureito Pagoda which I'm sure you've seen photos of - surrounded by blossom with Mt Fuji in the distance. I went early to avoid the crowds and was lucky that Mt Fuji had decided to show off against a blue sky that day, really incredible.
And now I am off to Korea for two weeks - I have a few days in Seoul and then I'm joining a short tour to go to some of the locations around the country such as Busan. Unfortunately I have caught a head cold, which is difficult in a country where blowing your nose is on a rudeness level equivalent to letting off a bit f*rt in public - luckily sniffing is perfectly acceptable. I'm hoping it will be over quickly.