Was it worth it?

 I got back late last night from Poland and am today struggling with the heavy head cold I acquired at some point.  I had three pleasant days in Wroclaw - but only at the cost of two absolutely horrendous travel days at either end plus a lot of additional expense. So I question if the trip was actually worth it.  It has certainly exploded the myth of being 'able to pop over to Europe for a short jaunt'.

Having gone down to Heathrow the day before (and discovered that the HotelHoppa bus is horrendous - 25 min wait in the cold to catch it, then it stops at every hotel over 40 minutes before finally reaching mine), I got up at 5:15am to catch the bus back to the airport.  Only when it arrived, it was already full so wouldn't let us on.  An entrepeneurial mini-bus driver rescued us for a fee, and took us to the terminal which was quite busy due to the holidays and the weather conditions causing a lot of cancellations.  Trudged through Security and got on the plane fine, then we were delayed 40 minutes by - of all things- the inability to fit all the carryon luggage into the upper compartments.  The staff were playing puzzle pieces trying to fit it all in, and begging a largely unresponsive audience to put things under their seats, while stroppy latecomers blocked the aisles.  The upshot was that we arrived late to Frankfurt where I was meant to be connecting.  Several of us started running through the terminal to the connecting gate, only to find that it was miles and up and down stairs etc. and routed us through a big passport control queue and then, of all things, back through a chaotic and understaffed Security check for a second time.  That took ages and when I finally arrived sick from running at the gate, I had missed the flight out by 20 minutes.  The next one wasn't for nine hours.  So I spent 9 hours in Frankfurt airport, having to book an additional hotel night and taxi for Wroclaw since I would be arriving at almost midnight - too late to catch the bus into the town or to be looking for my rented apartment in the dark.

The journey back was delayed due to the ice and snowy conditions - an hour delays out of Wroclaw meant more running in Munich airport for my connection (thankfully only passport control this time) and I was the last person to run onto the plane as they were calling final boarding.  Only for us to sit on the plane for 3.5 hours waiting for a takeoff slot inbetween de-icing and snow clearance .  I had read all my books and only had one cereal bar to eat.  My mobile data connection was tortuously slow but eventually I was able to partially download one Kindle book to read - for some odd reason it only downloaded clumps of 4-5 pages then would skip a page but at least it was better than nothing.  The delay meant that when I finally arrived back at Heathrow, I had missed the coach I had booked to get home during the rail strike, so DH had to nobly drive two hours down to Heathrow to collect me - and bring a packed supper because I was starving.  No refund for the coach ticket and of course the cost of the petrol.

Anyway, first world problems. At least I was safe and warm enough and my carryon bag stayed with me. Kudos to the men and women that keep it all moving during really challenging conditions.

The Christmas market in Wroclaw was fun, and quite spectacular at night all lit up.  It wasn't as germanic as I was subconsciously expecting.  It was certainly a much higher standard than the plasticky tawdry UK markets I've been to, and all the stalls and drinking dens were beautifully constructed from real wood.  Most of the stands were selling (no doubt overpriced) real goods such as sausages, cheeses, handcrafts, ornaments, baked goods etc.  The setting is very picturesque although I found out that almost everything I saw in Wroclaw had been reconstructed after the devastating bombing during WWII. The market sprawls around the old Town Hall and into adjoining streets and squares. My guide said it is the biggest market in Poland.

 I had booked a walking tour the first morning which took me around the main sights in the old town and out to the cathedral on its island. Daytime temperatures varied from -8C up to -1C and I was perfectly warm in what I had packed.  It snowed off and on and there was a light dusting of snow and ice everywhere. On the second day, I walked out to see Kolejkowo: a miniature world of model railways and Wroclaw landmarks.  It was quite fun with incredible amounts of detail.  Towards the end of the loop around the big room, I discovered there were buttons to push to make things happen like cranes to go up and down, or chickens to scrabble around under a tree - so I had to go around again to push all the buttons. There was also a day/night cycle, and when the buildings were lit up you could see loads more going on inside them.

A miniture of the town hall

Because of the season, there was a temporary exhibition of a huge gingerbread house village - it looked like real gingerbread and real icing so the work in it was incredible.

Town hall again, this time in gingerbread

In a Polish handicraft store, I found this tree covered in tatted stars and rounds, each selling for less than £2 each and beautifully made.  I bought one of the stars.

In the cathedral gift shop, I found a tree shaped candle. And in the Market Hall, this charming porcelain tree which holds a tealight.

A few other random acquisitions: some fridge magnets for my collection, some serviettes featuring tatting on baubles, and some sew-in leatherette tags for use on handcrafts.

Three days was plenty of time to see almost all the main sights and some museums, and to do lots of walking. I doubt any city looks its best in mid-December, and I think Wroclaw must be a lot more pleasant at other points in the year with all its rivers and bridges and parks.  I only really saw the old town and adjacent city - when I went up to a couple of viewpoints on towers, you could see that the modern city goes on for miles.  It's a budget destination, everything is very reasonably priced - I can see why so many Poles come over to work in Britain (there are quite a few Poles here in Northamptonshire) to earn in pounds sterling.  Admission to museums was under £2, a bus ticket was about .50p, a filling lunch for under £8, my comfortable apartment was only about £50 a night.

Anyway, I'm glad to be home, and to be recuperating in my own house.  DS will join us soon for Christmas.  Today I'm hoping to finish the Tannenbaum quilt on the frame and start taking it down.  

I hope you are all ready for Christmas (if you celebrate) and looking forward to a happy holiday.