Tokyo post - 7 April 2023

 I think I am going to blog as and when, rather than stick to a weekly schedule. Because a weekly post would end up way too long plus I would forget all the details by the end of the week. I am mainly going to concentrate on crafty doings as usual, I don't want to bore you too much with travelogue.

Before I left, I got the borders on to my Australian BOM quilt. I'm not entirely happy with it. I think overall, the quilt looks a bit wishy-washy. The borders look like an afterthought to make the quilt bed size (when the embroidered blocks are so embellished that I don't really feel it's suitable as a bed quilt anyway). The scallops are so large that I think they look a bit clumsy, plus mine have odd gaps between them because I had to space them out because I made the top a bit larger. I am not ruling out removing the final border and having a re-think. Any suggestions gratefully received. 

On Wednesday, after DH dropped me at the station, I got myself to Heathrow ok on the trains without throwing my back out. The British Airways flight was fine, just long and tedious at 14 hours. I started a new vanilla sock to knit while watching the inflight entertainment, read my Kindle and even managed to doze fitfully during the night.  Arrival was fine, got through all the formalities and made it into the city to my hotel where I will be staying for a week and a half. It's been quite warm at around 20 degrees, and a bit muggy which I don't like, also blustery and rainy.

I headed out today to catch the very tail end of the cherry blossom season - most of the early blooming variety has fallen now, only a few later varieties still standing. It must have been stunning a few weeks ago. After I leave Tokyo, I will be heading north so hopefully will catch more blossom there where it blooms a few weeks later.

There are a lot of boutique shops in this area (Nakameguro) and I spotted some kimono in a window, incongruously made out of denim.

Then I made my way over to Jiyugaoka to visit the Aphyu Tatting Lace shop. Jiyugaoka is just a normal neighbourhood, I didn't see a single other tourist out there because why would they.  Lots of interesting shops and eateries but there is no big tourist attraction nearby as far as I know, and it's a bit of a way from the city centre.  I enjoyed walking around because it wasn't touristy and wasn't crowded. The shop was a good size, and included tables where the owner gives classes. 

I was able to chat to her in my rudimentary Japanese, she was surprised to hear that tatting isn't so popular in the UK now, because the Japanese perception is that there is lots of tatting in the UK because it's tradition. She showed off some handpainted shuttles ordered in specially from Roseground in the UK.  She said it isn't so popular in Japan although recently some younger people are taking it up to make themself jewellery such as earrings, necklaces, bracelets etc.  She sells several patterns and kits for those, and had some elaborate works on display such as a 'cake party' with all the patisseries made from tatting, clothing embellishments, bags etc. I just think it's cool that there is a whole shop dedicated to tatting. I don't think I know of any bricks and mortar shops in the UK for tatting or bobbin lace exclusively. I guess Tokyo is so big that they have a sufficient customer base.

I haven't tatted much at all for years and have basically forgotten most of what I learned.  But I bought two of her cute kits to make covered drawstring bags: one quite basic which is just rings connected by thread, and another a bit more complex although she said it is still considered easy. Although the instructions are probably in Japanese, the diagrams will be comprehensible as there are some standard graphics used for tatting charts. The owner was very friendly but doesn't really speak any English, so I was glad I could communicate somewhat. I couldn't have done it on my previous visits to Japan.

After a stop into BookOff to look at their craft books, it was back on the train to head to Hirama station where I took a short walk through another normal neighbourhood, along the tracks to Crib Quilt shop. 

This shop is owned by the well known Japanese designer Masako Wakayama, who welcomed me at the door. I able to point right away to her book that I had bought in a bookshop on my last trip, and thank her for the table quilt and cushion I made from it, using some of her fabric panels that I found in the UK.  She was relieved I could speak some Japanese as she doesn't have much English, but her daughter (also there but working in the back) is fluent in English.  They travel widely from the sound of it: they've been to Ally Pally in the UK and last month were in Paris (probably at the L'Aiguille en Fete that I was meant to be at, if it weren't for the strikes!). She designs the 'American Country' line of fabrics, with a new iteration every year.  She showed me the American Country 22 panels which were so cute.  I bought three different ones and a couple of packs of coordinating fat eighths. The panels include wall quilts, as well as smaller items and small cushions. I suppose it's a bit paradoxical to be buying Japanese designed fabric inspired by American country themes, but there you go. I like her colour palette.

She also had fabric on the bolt, some tables for workshops, and various made up samples including a little tiny micro purse on a chain which I couldn't resist buying a kit for. I guess it's a necklace or a bag charm, it's too small to even put a coin in I think.

Yesterday I checked out a small branch of sewing and craft store Yuzawaya, conveniently located in a department store not far from my hotel.  I got a couple of the little metal zips that tend to show up in Japanese bag patterns, and a little resin kit to make tiny plates of patisserie which I think will be ok for dollshouse scale. I also got a Japanese quilting thimble by Clover, it's like a thick leather ring which you wear on your ring finger so that you can push through the needle that you are holding between your thumb and index finger. I looked at the fabric but didn't see anything I loved. I am thinking I might go back to Nippori fabric town, even though fabric is so heavy.

Speaking of dollshouse stuff, Crib quilts had a couple of miniature rooms that the owner's friend had made for her.

If you are wondering how I am getting around, I pre-purchased a Japanese SIM card for my phone so I can use Google Maps, which seems to be working really well.  Last time we had a pocket wifi which was an extra thing to carry. I got one of those as well but won't need to carry it around since the SIM seems to be working great. I can even use my phone on the trains and Underground, they must have repeater stations set up underground and on board. Using the Tokyo train system is pretty much like using the London Underground and trains, just more complex and busier. And a lot more rules about behaviour (no eating, no talking on the phone, no talking loudly etc - it's great). I've bought a SUICA card which is like an Oyster card, so I can just tap in and out at the ticket barriers. I got a bit confused a few times but most of the signs include English so with a bit of casting about, you can find the train line that you are looking for. Most people are still wearing masks in the station and on the trains, despite the government recently relaxing the guidelines, so I wear one too to fit in. But it makes me feel even hotter when I am already too warm in this weather, so I always whip it off as soon as I am out of the station.

It's almost weird to actually be here, after all the months of planning. But I am quite pleased about being able to actually talk to people a little, it makes such a huge difference in shops. I am still virtually illiterate since I know so few kanji -I have spent a lot of today  slowly sounding out signs written in hiragana and katakana, and chose to eat in a restaurant at lunch with a picture menu that I could point at. So far I have managed to avoid poisoning myself with gluten, I even visited a gluten free bakery after reading about it on Facebook and treated myself to a few things near the tatting shop.

So, first post from Japan and more to come.